"Stupidity," a European visitor at Arnhem lectured me, best explains why thousands of young men killed each other for no good reason over "meaningless" bridges. The displays, tapes, and guides suggest that a sudden madness once descended equally upon normal-thinking Europeans and Americans at places like Nijmegen and Remagen. In contrast, the "folly" of war - to paraphrase Barbara Tuchman - is what one gleans at most World War II museums in Europe. The inscriptions at American graveyards admonish the visitor to remember sacrifice, courage, and freedom they assume somebody bad once started a war to hurt the weak, only to fail when somebody better stopped them. The necropolis of thousands of uniform white crosses and Stars of David leaves the visitor mute - sadly, unlike the experience of visiting many of the World War II museums in Holland and Germany. No sitting American president, I am told, has ever visited the graveyard. Avold in the Lorraine - more dead here than at the Normandy grounds. There are over 10,400 Americans resting in the World War II cemetery at St. And after two weeks, I think most would prefer the wisdom of the noble dead to the ignorance of the shameful living. It is quite something to visit Aachen, Mainz, the Hurtzen forest, Bastogne, Omaha Beach, and Pointe du Hoc, and then juxtapose such visits with the daily pabulum in the International Herald Tribune, CNN, and the European dailies. The last two weeks I have been following the route of the American Army's drive from Normandy into Germany in 1944-5.
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They'd teach us a thing or two about war.
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